Walk into any jewellery shop and you will almost certainly see enamel pieces — brilliantly coloured pendants, vibrantly painted charms, bold floral earrings. But what exactly is enamel, and how is it applied to jewellery? The answer is more fascinating than most people expect.
What Is Jewellery Enamel?
Enamel is powdered glass fused to metal at high temperature. The powder — made from silica, metal oxides, and flux — is applied to the metal surface and fired in a kiln at temperatures between 750°C and 850°C. The glass melts, bonds permanently to the metal, and creates a hard, glossy, glass-like surface in virtually any colour imaginable. It is essentially painting with glass.
The History of Enamel in Jewellery
Enamel work dates to at least 1,300 BCE — examples have been found on Mycenaean Greek jewellery and Egyptian artefacts. The technique spread across the ancient world, appearing in Celtic British jewellery, Byzantine religious icons, and medieval European reliquaries. The Byzantine Empire (330–1453 CE) produced some of the most sophisticated enamel jewellery in history, with religious pendants and imperial jewellery featuring micro-detailed figurative scenes in brilliant colours.
In Scandinavia, enamel work appears prominently in Viking-age brooches and pendants from the 8th to 11th centuries, often combining amber, niello, and enamel in the same piece. The Swedish royal collections contain extraordinary examples of Baroque and Renaissance enamel jewellery from the 16th and 17th centuries.
The Main Enamel Techniques
Cloisonné: Thin metal wires are soldered to the metal base to create compartments (cloisons). Each compartment is filled with a different enamel colour and fired. The result is a raised-wire design with flat colour fields — the most recognisable enamel style, associated with Chinese and Byzantine craft traditions.
Champlevé: Recesses are carved, etched, or stamped directly into the metal base, and enamel is packed into these depressions before firing. The metal remains exposed at the highest points, creating a design that sits flush with the metal surface.
Plique-à-jour: Perhaps the most technically demanding technique — enamel is fired within a framework of metal wires with no backing, creating a translucent stained-glass effect. When held to the light, the piece glows. This technique requires extreme skill and patience.
Cold enamel: Modern fashion jewellery — including our Zivanno enamel charms — uses cold enamel, which is a resin-based product that mimics the look of fired enamel without the kiln process. It allows for bright, precise colours on mass-produced pieces while maintaining the vibrant, glossy finish of traditional enamel.
How to Care for Enamel Jewellery
Enamel is hard but brittle — it can chip or crack if dropped on a hard surface. Avoid storing enamel pieces with other jewellery that could scratch the surface. Clean with a soft damp cloth only — no abrasive cleaners or ultrasonic cleaners. Keep away from direct sunlight for extended periods, as prolonged UV exposure can fade some enamel colours over time.